When planning my visit to Kyrgyzstan I didn't want to miss out on an opportunity to get to know the culture first hand. I'm an anthropologist at heart so a fieldwork type experience is a must on any of my adventures! I found an ad on Workaway for volunteer English teachers in the Osh region of Kyrgyzstan and simply had to get in touch. When I was invited to stay with a local family whilst teaching I knew I was onto something incredible. Here's part one of my foray into traditional Kyrgyzstani life.
I first met my host, Kushbeck, in Kyrgyzstan’s capital, Bishkek, before taking the long journey south through the night. Picking our way through the crowds with my ever burdensome backpack along the edge of the sprawling Osh Bazaar to where our car was waiting was a trial, to say the least. We were bombarded by a torrent of colours and smells that would have put a Matisse painting to shame, though immersive it was a bit of an attack on the senses - but what else is it we travel for? Resting my luggage in the boot on arrival was a mighty relief but also a cue for the nervous ‘What am I doing? Who let me travel so far from home?’ thoughts. We were joined by Salipah and Azir, two of Kushbeck’s cousins who were travelling to Borbash to spend the summer with their grandmother. Salipah and I were close in age and would be sharing a room when we arrived, she and I shared very few words in common so communicated mostly in smiles. Azir was of school age and clearly ready to leave the city behind for the sloping hills of the Osh region. He was quite shy but unleashing a bag of almond biscuits I’d been saving for the occasion lightened the mood. An elderly couple who came along filled the last two seats in the people carrier. The old lady yielded a glinting grin and the way the sun reflected off her golden teeth was somewhat menacing... but in a way that told me a unique life experience beckoned. Was she a gangster, or just stylish? I'd never know. With that, we were off!
To begin our voyage all the way to the remote village of Borbash we had to snake around Bishkek's undulating roads and negotiate several mountain passes. Going north towards Kazakhstan before south added quite a bit onto the journey time so bear this in mind if you're planning this journey. Luckily, once free of the city chaos the road began to sweep through some incredible vistas offering some gorgeous golden hour views. I had to strategically hide a burst of joy when I caught Kushbeck pulling a rock on gesture out of the window, in my heart I joined him though - naturally. To my gluttonous delight, Kyrgyzstan was just as devastatingly beautiful as I'd dared to imagine in the maniacal planning stage of this adventure.
At around the halfway mark, we pulled into a roadside restaurant. I was unsure what to order since everything was written in Kyrgyz and I have some complicated food allergies. I really didn't want any disturbances on such a long journey and the thought of an emergency roadside stop, though scenic, filled me with a growing degree of horror. Playing dinner bingo isn't something I recommend but once you find yourself in an unfolding adventure playing it safe feels like a betrayal and there are times you just have to let the story unfold in front of you. Like you, I didn't have the time to mull this over. Sitting cross-legged at the low standing table atop boldly patterned cushions Kushbek ordered lepyoshka (a round and crusty bread), tea, and meat. I opted for the mutton knowing that this is safe to eat a little on the rarer side, just to be safe. When it arrived it was fatty - but juicy and filling, the hearty no-frills cuisine I had expected and though it wouldn't have won any beauty contests (you are what you eat after all) it kept me safely fuelled. Kushbek translated to me that Azir was nervous to practice his English so my first challenge would be to get him to speak to me. I had the patience and determination but as we got back onto the road I began to feel the nerves about my impending teaching position but more so, excited to feel more like a real anthropologist with Kushbeck's family. I hadn't gone all that way to only go all that way after all!
The second part of the journey was slower before darkness shrouded the peaks. We three in the back took it in turns to get some decent sleep, or at least pretend to, as there just wasn't space for each of us to recline. One particularly heartwarming moment I recall was when I opened my eyes to see Azir cradling his older sister on his shoulder so she could rest. I wondered if my younger brothers would do the same for me. They'd better. Eighteen hours after departing the capital city, the car came to a stop outside a gorgeous farmhouse on a hillside. It was roughly an hour before daylight but I could make out the towering figures of the trees surrounding the property. Once daylight had washed over I'd learn they were brimming with ripe and ready to fall apricots. The sound of a young boy delivering the azan (Muslim call to prayer) echoed from the village mosque as the family welcomed me to their home.
A flurry of excitement possessed me and I wanted to show my gratitude for their hospitality so showered them with the word рахмат (pronounced: rakhmat - thank you) as many times as I could get away with. I think they got the message. As the morning crept up behind us I brushed my teeth at the outdoor sink and was shown to the bedroom I’d be staying in. Two young girls, more relatives of Kushbeck, were sound asleep on the floor. A mat, bold and colourful like the restaurant cushion, had been set aside for me for the week and I gladly planted my rucksack beside it. With that, my time living like a local began, and surrendering to the drooping of my eyelids I let my new bed consume me.
This is the bit where I say a hearty "thanks!" and "рахмат!" for making it to the bottom of the page, I have plenty more Central Asia content in store for you - as well as other adventure tales from the likes of India, Japan, Peru and many many more! Stay tuned for updates on Instagram or subscribe to get the latest on here the moment I post something new.
Liked this? Have a read of these...
Comments