You can't travel to anywhere in Central Asia without someone recommending a market or ten to visit - and for good reason, they really are a quintessential part of the culture and well worth dedicating some time to. Karakol animal market is no exception but with some key distinguishing factors that make it well worth the early start to see, hear and inevitably smell. The animal market starts at dawn on Sundays and only lasts until breakfast time, by then you can reward yourself to some crusty lepyoshka or maybe even plov with the locals. What people come here to buy and sell is, you guessed it, livestock - it certainly isn't a pretty petting zoo but that isn't what it's there for. It is a living, breathing part of Kyrgyzstani culture that travellers willing to surrender their nasal passages are welcome to experience for themselves.
Like the rest of the countries in the heart of this region, Kyrgyzstan has a rich equestrian heritage and for generations nomadic, and nowadays settled peoples alike, have long relied upon working animals for survival. At markets like these, livestock is traded for the tourism industry, farming and food. Yes, horse is regularly on the menu in this part of the world - in my opinion the sooner you get your head around that the better. Once I'd crossed the border from Almaty my marshrutka coasted along the northern coast of Issyk Kul, my end destination on the lake took a heck of a journey to get to but what awaited was well worth the bumpy, sweaty slog. So far my quintessential Centra Asian equine experience was limited to one dramatic post asthma attack ride so I was keen to correct that. Having heard rumours about the animal market I wanted to get some more insight.
By chance I arrived into Karakol at the weekend and to my relief soon met some equally eager travellers at my hostel. A small group of us planned to visit the market together and share the taxi fare across town, walking at that hour was just unrealistic for yours truly, Madame Sleep-a-lot. I wasn't entirely sure what to expect but since this would be the first livestock market of my travels it would be well worth embracing the shrill din of my alarm for. Surely enough, we all cursed at our alarm tones that morning but cramming into a shared taxi we braved the dustiest of roads for the experience ahead. I thought myself lucky for bagging the passenger seat but soon realised the forfeit, I was the designated taste tester for all the delicious fresh dust the road hurled our way. The dirt road was as ungovernable as can be expected and when we mercifully rolled up outside the market I wilfully surrendered my senses to an entirely new assault: dung.
Though we arrived a little later than planned the market was still in full swing. We picked our way through a calamity of voices haggling prices, selling refreshments and barking orders and took in our surroundings. My suspicions confirmed, I inspected the chaos and realised I was one of only eight foreigners at the market - including a chance meeting with a trio of Belgian travellers I'd met back in Kazakhstan. Some of the locals seemed quite entertained at our presence, others tried to sell us horse's. I thought of the price I could have haggled for a sale if I'd accepted the horse my almost accidental husband had tried to give to me a couple of weeks prior and winced at the memory! Horses really are an important way of understanding society here, had I cottoned on sooner I could have made myself a veritable fortune. Ah well, next time.
Outside of tourism, livestock dealership for farming and trekking is the life and livelihood of Karakol. Everyone has a part to play here and it is easy to imagine these same scenes having taken place mostly unchanged for generations before. The language barrier meant it was almost impossible to engage with the scene around me but I still learned a lot just from watching the comings and goings - and... leavings. What I liked about Karakol animal market was that it wasn't there for tourists, whilst foreigners are of course welcome to attend it offers a more authentic activity and a chance to peek into Kyrgyzstani Karakol beyond the tour operators and trekking organisations. Thrusting yourself into the hustle and bustle of a place like this will give you something to think back on when you're trying not to loose your cool on the London Underground that's for sure.
That being said, this really is the raw side of travelling. It was a little upsetting seeing some of the animals looking sad awaiting their sale. A lot of the horses seemed to have some funny proportions, likely a result of breeding patterns. I was incredibly tempted to support some gallant escapee efforts, scroll down for the video. Nevertheless this is real life and if you're already travelling as far as Karakol, for instance, you may as well get a real feel for the place. Everyone at the market was busy going about their business and the reality of the role animals play in life is apparent.
Recommendations
Be prepared for an early start, this is a once a week event so don't miss it! Locals aren't lying when they suggest a 4am arrival
I visited in summertime, the market might take place at different times or not at all during the winter
Taking a shared taxi turned out to be a good move for the group I went along with but the market isn't actually too far to walk from the town centre
You could tie your visit to the market in with watching the sunrise on the shore of the lake if you're feeling really fancy
Don't have a big breakfast if you have a delicate threshold for feeling queasy
Hey there! Thanks for making to the end of the page, if you enjoyed this then check out the rest of my Central Asian adventures! Stay tuned for more on Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan too.
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