Japan: Surviving a Nomihoudai

Nov 14, 20195 min read

Updated: Jul 21, 2020

A gaggle of friends nursing a fallen comrade with a bin bag on the pavement outside, joyous salarymen letting off steam in their business suits and you, the eager first timer. Nomihoudai, all you can drink, isn't for the faint hearted and isn't recommended too regularly. Saying that, I've accidentally become a bit of a seasoned expert and can testify to its popularity in Japan so interpret my advice however you see fit. Here's your guide on what to expect from the excitement of the infamous nomikai.

Empty alcohol kegs at a shrine in Yoyogi Park, Tokyo

What's it all about?

Japan famously has a culture of working extremely hard. It isn't uncommon to spot people tactically napping or even full on crashing to sleep on the train to or from work. Sleep is great and all, but socialising with friends, family and colleagues is also a great way to unwind. I learned that a surprising number of people in Japan actually have an intolerance to alcohol, perhaps this is one of the things that make nomihoudai a viable business for most izakayas. Either way it is a hugely popular pastime for both foreigners and Japanese people alike and a great way to get everyone together at the end of the working week. That's not to say you won't find a bar with a nomihoudai deal midweek, it does tend not to be a school night activity though for reasons that'll become apparent further down in this post.

Here's the deal

You pay a set amount, probably around the 2000 Yen mark, for a window of around two hours. That time is yours to consume whatever you like from the all you can drink menu, and in whatever quantity you desire. What you'll see in the time to come can vary. Some manage to make it through with poise and dignity, mystical creatures if you ask me. Some adopt an "it's my first ever house party" approach - these are likely the ones to need the nursing later on. Here's hoping you fit somewhere in the middle for maximum fun and to secure future invites.

What to expect

On arrival you slip off your shoes, if there's any chance you'll need to make an impromptu cunning escape later then opt for something without laces. Greeting your friends you settle into your floor sunken table - trapped, but trapped by design. Then it begins. Things start off cordially and maybe even with a sense of decorum as the first round is ordered. Fast forward two hours, you blink at the bar waiter in disbelief… Could the time really have passed so quickly? Yet the evidence of the debauchery is clear to see. An army of empty glasses decadently adorning the table, probably spillages (innocent ones you hope) and as for your once spritely team… Some will inevitably be looking worse for wear, others only getting started. There are two types of people at the end of a nomihoudai. The just-about-surviving and live-n-thriving. I’m proud to say I’m the latter. Just what happened in those two hours though? Could you really have been capable of creating such a beast of a mess? Yes, yes you could. You see, it probably all started with an innocent beer over some tori karaage or if you’re like me and just have to be different some takoyaki. So civilised. Then came the sampling of the cutesy cocktails handwritten on the menu. A princess, blueberry oolong and a snow queen later and the party was really getting in full swing. Somewhere between the selfies you decided to up your game and be a real fancy-pants ordering a sake. This was the point where you'd have done well to call it a night.

Before you knew it some bright spark had morphed into a demon ordering Kahlua-milks by the batch of eighteen. Around then some unfortunate was likely possessed by the spirit of Jack Daniel himself. It was at this point that the night reached terminal velocity. Did you do anything to stop it? NO, of course not. As unconventional as sinking back your fair share of those eighteen glasses of milk may have seemed, you partook in the name of culture.

Half way in you swallowed your pride and donned the infamous toilet slippers - my local had crocs, and began the inevitable streak of broken sealed loo trips. This was not to be your downfall however, with a tempting array of tidbits to peruse on the menu you could easily justify moving onto the umeshu by having a cheeky side of fries, or even edamame in an attempt to balance out the indulgence with greenery. Truthfully, the rest is a blur of cackling fuelled drinking games and perhaps even some surprisingly decent Japanese ability. With new friendships and memories created, you departed the izakaya and attempted to walk home in a straight line. Please be careful, I once had to spot a friend like a gymnast to stop them tumbling into rice paddy ditches at the side of the path back to our village. No "just one last blueberry oolong" is worth ending up bathing with the crickets.

Kampai!

Recommendations

The nomihoudai isn't there to harm you but responsible drinking is always the way, it is tempting to mix and try lots of different things from the menu - just pace yourself and don't neglect the drinking water.
When ordering exciting looking things and food from the menu make sure it'll be included in the deal, if not then you'll need to pay for this on top.
Try to bag an invite along with Japanese friends to really get an authentic feel for it.
For goodness sake, don't peak too soon. You don't need to go full ham to enjoy this novelty to the full.
The legal drinking age in Japan is 20, be prepared to show ID if requested to.

Where to drink

Kyoto

Torihime close to the Round 1 games arcade on Kawaramachi-dori was a favourite spot and regular watering hole for myself and my friends when studying in Kyoto. I recommend having a before and after purikura photo shoot in the arcade to make the most of the location and of course some lightly competitive Mario Kart races.

Tokyo

The Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a collection of alleyways featuring quirky and offbeat bars. Some of them will offer nomihoudai but others are simply too small to cater for that. Saying that, it has made it onto this list purely for the madventurous possibilities this warren like network holds. A windowless upstairs bar completely covered in leopard print was a personal highlight.

Worth the journey

Hakkenden in Shintanabe, about half an hour by train from Kyoto central. This was my local and will always have my heart. Back in 2016-17 they proudly provided crocs to wear inside, an extensive cocktail selection and a free treat on your birthday. With any luck these will still be there. Take the Kintetsu line from Kyoto central and change to the local train at Yamato-Saidaiji.