Turquoise waters, stunning mountain scenery, and traditional yurts await those who venture to eastern Kazakhstan.
Welcome to the second installment of my wild account of hitchhiking in Kazakhstan! If you haven’t read Part 1 then you can check it out here to read about my first hitchhiking misadventure, if you have - then thanks for coming back! Part Two of this tale of woe and wonder begins in Saty, Kazakhstan.
After a gloriously problematic fourteen-hour journey from Almaty to eastern Kazakhstan culminating in an almost overwhelming assortment of carbs, you’d think I’d have slept like a genuinely tired person that night. You’d be wrong. There’s something unsettling about having an entire guesthouse to yourself in a place you can’t point out on a map. If someone had been there with a microphone to ask how I was feeling, frankly I’d have said I was disappointed not to have anyone to compare notes with. Insomniac Liv was wired and practically crawling up the walls needing to tell anyone who’d listen about the day I’d had and how I intended to keep up this reckless streak. To say I went ‘full ham’ is an understatement but spoiler alert: This is not a love story
4 am showed up a full twelve hours before my brain and body wanted it to but I forced myself out of bed and within forty minutes I was staring down at the magnificent Kolsai Lake 2 as if it was my second breakfast. Before entering the Tien Shan Mountains National Park I had to pay my tourist fee and sign the entry book with what could have been the missing link in the puzzle had the police and embassy come searching for me, a fact I would later take comfort in. I was the first visitor to enter the park that week which I found hard to believe at first but then, drinking in the exquisite view that lay before me I was convinced of my intrepidity. With nobody to eavesdrop, I indulged in talking to myself the entire hike around the edge of the lake. I’m amazed I was even listening to be honest because this has to be the most distractingly beautiful place I’d ever explored - and to the naked eye, it was all mine that morning! Unsurprisingly I accidentally on purpose spent far longer than planned staring into the abyss, before having to scramble back like an escaped convict. I gave the water a longing look as I had to rush away back to the car, please do me a favour and skinny dip on my behalf whichever of you readers makes it back there before I do.
Choosing to ignore the fact that my driver for the day was about thirteen years old was a sensible choice and I’d encourage anyone else traveling in these parts to do the same. Luckily for me I can’t drive, so this made it easier to perch helplessly in the passenger seat and enjoy the cutthroat twists and turns of what an abstract surrealist would also agree wasn’t a road. We eventually pulled up in a gorgeous clearing, the very image of idyllic I had in mind when I’d been daydreaming about this adventure. Locals were gathering in their yurts, sharing lunch, and giving their horses some time to have their own equine catchups. The sun was shining down on the valley and I was already crafting my “Mum, Dad, I live here now” letter in my head. So very wholesome. Let’s not get distracted though, this isn’t the story of how I went to a lake and simply had a good time.
I opted not to ride one of the horses down to the bottom of the mountain, instead, I found my own way down to Lake Kaindy and it wasn’t nearly as treacherous as the locals had me believe. On settling down by the water I feasted on a meat roll from the day before and some uncomfortably warm dried cranberries. What fascinated me the most were the trees that stood out of the waters and the ultimate spot for peace and quiet. I did notice a dying down campfire and small hut so you may well find other visitors but I only saw two other people. Nestled within a small valley and with impossibly turquoise water, Lake Kaindy is much smaller than the Kolsai Lakes but it is definitely worth including in your itinerary. If you're planning to make the journey to this region then visiting Kolsai 2 and Kaindy on the same day as I did is perfectly viable.
The incline back to the clearing (where vehicles will park, it's impossible to drive down to the lake) is incredibly steep so riding by horseback on the return is advisable. However, that is the last part of the day that went smoothly. Once up at the top again I found that my horse was the podium I didn’t need or want. Nobody knew my name but three guys, probably around my age, were particularly interested in getting to know me and my mysterious solo traveling ways. It really does baffle people. In the most futile attempt in getting me to understand Russian, I am still yet to know what those three young men were saying to me in earnest. All I can tell you is that they arm-wrestled in front of me and the winning chap took me into his yurt to meet his family, for tea and cake I suspected. I knew to expect some classic Central Asian hospitality so I was revelling in the experience I was having, his family were all very excited to meet me and couldn’t make me feel more welcome in their home. “This sounds weird Liv”, I hear you. Just go with it.
Kyat (Kwat), my host, demonstrated how they would fold the felt on the beams around at night and where they kept their fancy cutlery. I was impressed by their collection of antique spoons but what I wish I’d taken the initiative to consider why it was so important that I approved of this accumulation. More conversation followed I wish I could tell you how we all laughed along at the family in-jokes and discussed the intricacies of Kazakhstani culture. I wish I could reminisce about our conversation that everyone understood at least half of. Alas, I can’t. Before I knew it all eyes in the yurt darted to mine and the utterances from Kyat sounded lilted at the end. Questions? Maybe. I gave them all a polite smile and expression of “I don’t know what you’re saying but I’m really happy to be your guest, this tea is delicious”. I resorted to saying, simply, "Raxmet" (thank you). Then rapturous excitement erupted! Grandparents started appearing from nowhere, his mother and aunts were kissing me on the cheek, small children were wriggling around starry-eyed and it seemed even long lost brothers were emerging from the one curved wall of the now hopelessly crowded yurt. Before I had a decent chance to check in with my internal monologue regarding what could possibly be happening I was led outside and presented with a horse.
“For you!”. So he knew at least two words in English it turned out. Everyone saw this as a prime photo opportunity so I paused my confusion in my attempts to look candid next to my new friends. That’s when everyone caught on that I really didn’t speak any Russian, or Kazakh, and I wasn’t playing some far fetched practical joke on them all. Kyat turned to me with a look on his face that said desperation and then gesticulated at our ring fingers and pointed between the two of us if anything this said brazen confidence. Did I just get… Married? OH hell no. Surely not? Surely I hadn’t gone this epically wrong on only day four of my trip? What does one do in a situation like this whilst trying not to offend a family you may or may not suddenly be a part of? Being Mrs. Kyat, or even Mrs. Anyone did not appeal to me in the slightest. I needed to think fast if I was going to get out of there quickly, without causing a scene and maintain my singledom. Fortunately and to my utter delight the thirteen-year-old had to get home, he apologised for having to cut our outing short but as far as I was concerned he and his chores were the heroes of the hour. I leapt into the battered escape shell only too eager for the perils of the track.
On returning to my guesthouse it emerged that my lift to the next stop on my voyage had fallen through which meant I was going to have to get to the nearest town with an ATM and then work out the rest of the journey from there. This meant finding my way to Kegen, the final frontier of Kazakhstan before the Kyrgyzstani border. Be prepared for this in Central Asia. In this case, the car just wasn’t coming to pick me up, end of story. Needless to say, this was frustrating but matters only got worse after my attempts and willpower to hitch a ride out of Saty grew feebler by the hour. I’m not a giver-upper but there was something about that empty road that was making me think another stay in the loneliest guesthouse for miles was on the cards. However, who should by chance alone waltz over the horizon to my aide? Hubby, that’s who. I felt embarrassed beyond all measure - the runaway bride feebly having to ask her estranged, albeit accidental, husband of four and a half hours for help getting out of town. Nevertheless, he helped me flag down a lift at the side of the road and jovially waved me off as I set off on our honeymoon, blissfully alone. Realistically I'm guiltily conscious that he was expecting me to be back by now. Sorry honey.
I indulged in the sweet sense of false security I’m all too familiar with and allowed my sudden marital concerns to melt away into the scenery behind me. Sure enough, I didn’t have to worry about taking on new priorities as a wife on the unforgiving steppe. However, there’s no such thing as a quick pit stop in Kegen, especially not when you’re hoping to reach the desert by nightfall. At that moment, I had no idea what tribulation was awaiting me but having swapped one problem for another I caught sight of my reflection in the wing mirror. Mirror Liv didn’t look concerned, win.
Tips for visiting the lakes
If like me you enjoy the odd drop of fresh lake water make sure you have a filter bottle or use some sort of water purification, getting ill somewhere this remote wouldn't be fun. Only fill an empty bottle, please don't empty anything into the lakes - they are beautiful partly because they're untouched. If you have enough water then don't take any, it seems silly to say but if every visitor did this it wouldn't be sustainable!
It is well worth the trek and awkward journey to get to these spots as they really are special places,
As for swimming: Lake Kaindy was glacial so even one toe at a time was too cold, and believe me I gave it my best shot! From what I could see, swimming is permitted in Kolsai Lake 2 but I don't recommend straying too far from the banks as there likely won't be lifeguards - this is an extremely remote place after all.
Making it down to Lake Kaindy on foot isn't too demanding (though still fairly steep) but ascending back is, I definitely recommend opting to ride a horse back to the top. There will most likely be some locals on hand for this.
If you can't understand what someone is saying to you, make sure they know this - you might just end up potentially married...
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The stories of a true adventurer!🏔🌏